10 Questions You Should to Know about Kwikstage Scaffolding System

I'm still in two minds whether to use a normal scaffold company or get kwickstage and DIY.  Price wise I'm still to get a final price off my favoured local scaffold guy but his partners price came in at £8.5 and that was for as long as I needed it (years lol which he is aware of). Only one company who quoted my on Kwikstage (and could not say if I wouldn't need more) came in at £13k inc VAT (that price was 2 years ago so has probably changed). 

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I'm wondering if I could pick peoples brains about Kwikstage scaffolding and whether any users have any regrets about using it? 2 forum members have shared their thoughts about it and the thing I get is not to underestimate how heavy they can soon become when putting it up, down and moving it around.

I have a few questions about the system if anyone can help?

1. Are there standard width(ledger) sizes to use, say 2.4m?

2. I looked at images on Google and some diagrams do not list "transoms". Are these used on all ends to hold the scaffolding together and "return transoms" for where you basically turn the scaffold 90 degrees?

3. What do you do when your corner isn't 90 degrees?

4. Is there a standard width of scaffold to go for, 1.2m?

5. How do I know how much diagonal bracing I need?

6. Do you use outriggers at all anywhere?

7. Do you just use a ledger as a handrail?

8. What is the point of toe boards, do they stop people/tools from slipping through the bottom gap?

9. How stable is kwikstage when going to 2nd and third storey heights as I have some chimney breasts to do.

10. Is there any issue with trades working on it? I would want to cut any corners on safety!!

11. I've got a couple of places where I will need to bridge over a single storey porch and external fireplace on the second lift, how is that done?

12. Lastly, how much of the purchase price could I expect to get back when I'm ready to sell?

Sorry for all the questions but I've never seen the stuff let alone used it. I just want to try and work out the minimum I would need so I can decide which way to go.

Vijay

Standard length of each section is 2.4M (8ft) though you can get 6ft (whatever that is in metric) lengths as well though less common.

Standard width is 5 boards which is 1.2M / 4ft but you can get narrow 3 board wide transoms handy if you have to scaffold in a narrow gap.

Make sure you get enough diagonal braces

I put a "bracing tower" to stabilise a tall lift.

The big question is will your builders work on "your" scaffold. In my case the answer was yes. As it happened I did not have enough so 3 sides of the house were done with my own, and the 4th with the builders (cuplock) scaffold.

I got back just about what I paid.  I did lose some planks as they rotted due to bad storage.

Yes it is heavy. It can be hard work putting it up, take your time,  This was a days work for the pair of us:

Toe boards are to stop stuff rolling off and falling on someone, obviously in this photo they have not been fitted yet. 

Link to DYNAST

1. Most common size is 8ft long.  You can get 4ft and 6ft also. 

2. Transoms are just the part the plank sits on.  They are and upside T so the plank sits in the web. 

3. You start another run and tie both parts together using small sections of round bar and clamps.  Then overlap planks from one side to the other to bridge the gap. 

4. 4ft is the most common width but you can get narrower trannies if  access for example is an issue. 

5. You need a diagonal in on every lift in height.  Depending on how long the run is you might need 2 spaced apart. 

6. You don't usually use these as the scaffold gets tied to the building via  Window openings.  But I like to wedge planks to stop the  wobble.  If it's really long 20m+ then you could set up a bay to use as a loading area. 

7. Yes

8. Stops  bricks and tools falling off when they get dropped or kicked and hitting those below,  important bit. 

9. As long as you have the diagonal bars in that height isn't an issue.  It will still wobble a bit but you get used to it. 8 stories high is my highest in  kwickstage and it was fine. 

10. Only issue is every trade needs it at different heights so will take bars out to suit them and they never put them back. Will be your job if diy to go round and check they haven't took the handrails of and left an opening you can fall  through. 

11. You can either use 21 ft round bars if this is long enough or steel ladders that have round bars that scaffold clamps clamp to.  Or you leave the roof of the porch and put a standard on the floor and continue the run as normal.  Strip the scaffold and then finish the porch. Need to put a pic up to see what you mean about the fire place. 

12. You will recover the vast majority of what you spent. 

Don't under estimate how heavy and time consuming it will seem at the start.  But the muscles will grow  and you will get quicker. 

Planks and ice don't go well together so if you're doing this in the winter just be careful. 

Wear gloves  and when you are  removing planks to either lift or lower a run a hat and goggles.  The dust and dirt that will fall on you is unreal. 

Be realistic its a 2 man job till you get it figured out. 

Melbourne builders know: Kwikstage scaffolding’s speed and adaptability make it a go-to for everything from heritage renos to high-rises. But not all suppliers deliver equal quality. After 42% of scaffolding incidents traced back to dodgy installations (WorkSafe Victoria ), asking these 7 questions could save your project from budget blowouts or worse.

1. “Can I See Your AS/NZS : Certification?”

Why it’s non-negotiable:
Uncertified systems often fail WorkSafe inspections – and that $150K fine lands on you. One Fitzroy renovator learned this hard way when their uncertified scaffold led to a full site shutdown.
What good looks like:

• Physical compliance tags on all equipment
• $20M+ public liability insurance proof

2. “What’s Not Included in This Quote?”

Why Melbourne sites get stung:
Hidden fees lurk in:

• Council permits (especially tricky in heritage zones like Richmond)
• “Reconfiguration fees” if plans change
• Storm damage waivers
  Smart move: Get it in writing. Always.

3. “How’s Your Gear Handle Sloping Blocks?”

Real talk for Melbourne’s terrain:
Richmond’s 4m gradients or Dandenong’s hills demand:
✅ Adjustable base plates (15°+ capacity)
✅ Cantilevered decks for severe slopes
✅ Soft-ground stabilisers (no sinking!)
Red flag: “Our standard gear handles slopes fine.”

4. “Got Site-Specific Engineering Plans?”

Why generic blueprints fail:
CBD high-rises ≠ South Yarra period homes. WorkSafe requires:

• Load calc sheets (min. 225kg/m²)
• Wind ratings for coastal sites (Port Melbourne gusts hit 80km/h!)
• Anchor diagrams for unique facades

5. “What’s Your Emergency Fix Time?”

Melbourne’s weather reality:
When storms rip through Footscray at 3am, you need:

• ≤3-hour response for critical bracing
• 24/7 hotline (not a voicemail!)
• Live monitoring (IoT tilt sensors help)

6. “Who Handles Install/Dismantling?”

The DIY trap:
A Hawthorn tradie saved $1K installing himself… then paid $12K when improper assembly caused a collapse.
Demand:

• VIC-certified crews (HRWL licences visible)
• Debris removal included

7. “Show Me Local Projects Like Mine”

Why suburb expertise matters:
Scaffolding for a Collingwood warehouse ≠ a heritage cottage in Brighton. Ask for:

• Photos/videos of similar jobs
• Client contacts (real ones!)
• Council permit experience in your area

You’ve Got Questions. We’ve Got Solutions.

Hey, it’s Sam from R&R Scaffoldings. We’ve been fielding these exact questions from Melbourne builders since . Here’s how we tackle them:

Are you interested in learning more about Kwikstage Scaffolding System? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!

Don’t Roll the Dice on Scaffolding