Hello,

I just found the website and it's great to see a woodturnung forum with active posting. :cool2:

I've been turning for about 15 years now and have great old American Woodworking Machinery Patternmakers lathe. I mostly turn open formed bowls and platters, but I'm currently limited to 16". Up until now that's been fine but I'm itching to try some bigger projects.

I'm in the process of accumulating pieces for a bowl lathe that I would like to make. What I plan on doing is using the headstock off of a 9" South Bend metal lathe (complete with back gears for slower RPM). This will be mounted to a steel base filled with sand, and to that will be mounted my toolrest assembly (or I may opt to use a free standing one at first). I'm thinking of using a variable speed DC motor, but am unsure of the HP I will need. For now, I can't imagine turning anything much larger than 24" (maybe 30") if I get daring.

Is 1HP large enough? Should I be looking at 2HP instead? Also, I'd like to hear any opinions on my choice of headstock. I chose this option because it was already made and ready to go (and because I have it). Maybe it's not strong enough?

Thanks for any tips/advice you may be able to offer.
ScottPerz Scott
I would normally say that 1 horse would not be enough because I've turned a 29" bowl with 1 1/2 horse and it definitely needed more power. However I didn't have all the gears that you have on the metal lathe. I would say if you already have the motor to give it a try and upgrade later. If you don't have a motor then get at least 2 horse. If your going to use a DC motor remember that you loose power at the slower speeds. In this case I would either use the gearbox of the metal lathe and plan to change speeds often or I would opt for an even bigger motor.
A better way to go on a bowl lathe would be Variable Frequency Drive with a 3 phase motor. They run off of single phase 220 and still have plenty of torque at really low speeds.
On bowl 12" and larger you don't need over rpm unless you just want to. I think a lot of turners turn this size faster but it's not necessary and is certainly more dangerous. John:

Yeah, I was thinking that gearing would definately present more load to the motor. Currently I do not have a motor, so my options are open. I guess will start looking for a 2HP+ DC motor and controller next.

A friend of mine suggested a treadmill motor, but I can't believe that such a small motor can produce as much continuous HP as they claim on the label.

Do you need a special 3PH motor to work properly with a VFD? How do the VFDs and 3PH motor's compare to the DC and DC Controllers cost wise ? As if I need to tell you, I'm trying to do this the least costly method.

Dietrich:

I live in Dudley, about 20 minutes from the Worcester Craft Center. I went to couple of meetings a couple of years ago, and was meaning to sign up, but never got around to it. I will look and see when the next one is scheduled and try to make it. I did enjoy going.

Thanks everyone.

ScottPerz said: .....A friend of mine suggested a treadmill motor, but I can't believe that such a small motor can produce as much continuous HP as they claim on the label.

Do you need a special 3PH motor to work properly with a VFD? How do the VFDs and 3PH motor's compare to the DC and DC Controllers cost wise ? As if I need to tell you, I'm trying to do this the least costly method.

If you use a DC motor, it will develop its peak torque at zero speed (i.e. at stall) and the torque decreases linearly with increasing speed until the theoretical maximum speed at which point, the output torque is zero. The base operating speed of the DC motor is usually defined as the speed at which maximum horsepower is produced and at that speed, the output torque is roughly half of the zero speed torque. DC motors are normally not operated much above base operating speed.

You are probably right about the claimed horsepower of treadmill DC motors unless you are talking about the motors used on the big treadmills found in health clubs. The claimed HP on home treadmills is sort of like routers that claim a 3 HP motor, yet calculations show that the best they could possibly do is a little better than 1.25 HP.

If you want to use a variable frequency drive, you are correct in assuming that not just any three phase motor would be acceptable. Variable frequency drives generate three phase output using high-speed switching transistors with a pulsed output to drive the motor. This high frequency switching of power to the motor's windings causes high voltage spikes (several times greater than the applied voltage) on the power leads to the motor which can break down the insulation between adjacent wires in the motor's windings. A lot of newer motors have insulation that can withstand the voltage spikes and there will often be a label on the motor that says something like "Inverter Ready". The important thing to look for on the nameplate is the insulation class. Class H insulation is fully compatible with inverter operation. Class F insulation is also compatible with inverter operation within stated restrictions. Another thing to be mindful about is that when operating a TEFC motor at low speeds, there will not always be sufficient cooling from the fan, so those motors will usually have a stated minimum speed which is often 25% of base speed. Also, if the motor is not specifically intended for inverter duty, the maximum speed should not be much more than base speed. AC motors that are specifically designed for variable frequency operation over a wide speed range will often be blower cooled (TEBC -- i.e. a separate fan motor that runs at constant speed is used to provide cooling). I have a 1.5 HP Baldor TEBC three phase motor rated for variable frequency duty from zero speed up to RPM.

There are different types of variable frequency drives for AC motors. The cheapest is usually known as Volts/Hertz or something similar. Their output power and torque tend to poop out at low speed and they usually don't have the speed range of better controllers. The next step up is known as sensorless vector and they normally provide full torque below base speed and full horsepower above base speed. The fanciest controllers, known as vector controllers, use position feedback so that they can operate from zero speed up to the motor's upper limit with full performance.

Three phase AC motors usually cost a lot less than quality DC motors, but that is usually offset by the high cost of AC variabled frequency drives. The cost of variable frequency drives continues to drop as their usage continues to increase. You can often get reasonably good deals on the surplus market for both DC and AC motors and drives.

Bill
home made bowl lathe

I have been in the process of making a home brew bowl lathe for about 3 months now. I am using a 2hp 3 phase motor I bought used for $75 and a VFD I got free from my father in law. Its the same drive used on the Stubby. Currently I am using a wood frame bolted and weighted heavily with a spindle in a pair of pillow blocks. Just realized my spindle is not true so now I am looking for a machinist to help me true the spindle and fit new bearings. I do use it for roughing out large bowls and have not had any problems other than being about a 64th out of true. It can easily handle a 18" by 7" bowl blank with my supernova chuck. An early picture can be found in my gallery but it has changed since. I am just playng around since I had the drive already and was itching to use it. I would be interested in seeing others attempt at the same thing if there are any pics out there. I hope to turn wall hangings when I work out the kinks. RPM's - Bowl Size - Rim Speed

Steve Worcester said: When you start looking at turning large, think slow. Most rough outs I do in larger sizes are probably less than 60 or so RPMs...

Larger pieces you have to start thinking about surface speed. A one inch item at RPMs has much less surface feet per minute than a 20+" Item at RPMs...

Here is a table listing RPM's, and Rim Speed for various size bowls...
Rule of Thumb - RPM Speed Range for Turning Bowls
Bowl Size - In.......RPM-Speed........Speed - Ft/Min........Rim Speed - Mi/Hr
Diam.....Circumf....Low.......Hi.........Low...........Hi..........Low.........Hi
1_______3.1......................785.........785........8.9........8.9
2_______6.3....................1,571......1,571......17.8.......17.8
3_______9.4....................1,571......2,356......17.8.......26.8
4_______12.6...........
5_______15.7...........
6_______18.8...........
7_______22.0.......857......
8_______25.1.......750......
9_______28.3.......667......
10______31.4.......600.......900
11______34.6.......545.......818
12______37.7.......500.......750
13______40.8.......462.......692
14______44.0.......429.......643
15______47.1.......400.......600
16______50.3.......375.......563
17______53.4.......353.......529
18______56.5.......333.......500
19______59.7.......316.......474
20______62.8.......300.......450
21______66.0.......286.......429
22______69.1.......273.......409
23______72.3.......261.......391
24______75.4.......250.......375
Above Figures are based on "Rule of Thumb" formula from Oneway
RPM's x Bowl Diameter ==> Should be Between and
Results in Constant "Rim Speed" for any Size Bowl
Note - Speed Listed or 1" & 2" assume Max Speed of RPM's

This is my first post... I'm still learning...
PS - How do you post a Table...?
It converted "Tabs" to "Single Space"; Then I converted Single Space to "many spaces", it compressed that to a "Single space"; then tried - ....'s
There must be an easier way...?

Best Lathes and Planers for Your Project

Last updated September 7,

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Lathes and planers perform different woodworking tasks, but each makes it easier for a woodworker to finish wood projects with a professional flair. This buying guide highlights the different uses of each and details the types, power and speed of lathes and planers.

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Table of Contents

1. Types of Lathes and Planers

2. Lathe Capacity and Speed

3. Planer Capacity and Speed

Types of Lathes and Planers

Lathes shape wood by turning the piece as chisels and gouges whittle wood away. Lathes are used to create items such as furniture legs, bowls and balusters. A tool rest slides on the bed between the headstock and tailstock of the lathes so you can steady your tools as you shape the wood. Look for a model that includes different speeds, as more rigid materials require faster speeds to shape.

• Bench-top lathes have a 12-inch to 16-inch maximum capacity swing with a 30-inch to 42-inch maximum distance between centers.
  Bench-top lathes save on money and space.
• WEN lathes have a 4-inch to 10-inch maximum capacity swing and a 10-inch to 16-inch maximum distance between centers.
• Stationary lathes have a maximum capacity swing of 16 inches or more. The maximum distance between centers is typically 40 inches or more. These types of lathes have more power than a bench-top model.
• Mini lathes have a smaller capacity and are compact, portable and have a lower cost, great for hobbyists.

Planers trim wood boards to a consistent thickness on both sides of the wood using a rotating blade that shaves off thin layers of wood.
Planers are also called "thickness planers" because they reduce the thickness of a board.

• Bench-tops are less expensive and more compact.
• Stationary models are great for tackling large stacks of lumber.
• Handheld versions are also available.

Lathe Capacity and Speed

There are two important capacity dimensions for lathes: the swing and the distance between centers. Also, some materials such as hardwoods require a more powerful motor to shape the wood.

• The swing is the maximum diameter piece you can turn.
• The distance between centers is the maximum work length a lathe can handle.
• If turning large bowls, you need a spacious swing.
• If turning table legs, you need a length that can handle long pieces of wood, not just a large diameter.
• Lathes are designed with a range of capacities, including micro-sizes for shaping pens and other tiny work pieces.
• Some lathes allow you to mount a faceplate on the outside of the headstock for oversized turning.
• Lathes range in horsepower from one-half to three hp.
• Difficult materials require a lathe with more horsepower.
• Look for a model with a dust port to attach to a shop vac or dust collection system to catch dust.

Planer Capacity and Speed

There are three important capacity dimensions for planers: the width of the stock, the depth of stock thickness and the depth of the cut.

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• Stationary planers usually offer 3 to 10 horsepower with demanding voltage and amp requirements.
• Bench top planers offer 13 to15 amps and 120 V.
• The width capacity of planers are usually 12 to 20 inches.
• The depth of stock thickness is often 6 inches.
• Stationary planers can remove more wood material in a single pass compared to bench tops.

Bench-Top Capacity:

• Maximum workpiece width: 12" to 15"
• Maximum workpiece height: 4" to 6"
• Maximum depth of cut: 1/32" to 1/8"

Power:

• 13 to 15 amps, 120V

Number of Knives:

• 2 or 3

Advantages:

• Compatible with most home power outlets
• Compact, space saving
• Portable, can be transported to jobsite
• Adequate for most home users

Stationary Capacity:

• Maximum width: 13" to 24"
• Maximum workpiece height: 6" to 10"
• Maximum depth of cut: 1/8" to 3/16"

Power:

• 1-1/2 hp to
  10 hp

Number of Knives:

• 3 or 4

Advantages:

• Able to process large quantities and sizes of lumber
• Faster and more efficient for big jobs
• Heavier weight enhances stability and reduces vibration
• More knives deliver a smoother finish

Finding the best lathes and planers for your project is easier when you shop The Home Depot Mobile App. If you want to try out a tool or plan to use it only once, consider The Home Depot Tool Rentalto get your project done. Use once, then bring it back—no maintenance required and you won’t need to store it either.

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