How to Choose lamellars?

Hello and welcome to my tutorial!!

Link to LIONSHELL

I am a huge fan of historical arms and armors (armours?) and have been wanting to build a suit of armor for a very long time now. But if you are like me (live in an apartment...restricted to a very slim budget...limited access to tools) you find yourself with a whole lot of desire and information but not a lot of armor.

This can be frustrating beyond belief!! However during my research I discovered a way for someone to make a piece of armor for under $200 depending upon their particular size and weight!!

That's when I discovered LAMELLAR!!

Tools (poor guy version):

*A drill

*Phillips Head Drill Bit

*Metal cutting drill bits

* A piece of wood

*A marking device(pen, marker colored pencil)

*Clamps

*Screws

Rich Guy Tools(if ya got em):

*Drill Press

*Vice

Materials:

3.5 x 1.5 in Mending Braces (mine came from my local Lowe's Home Improvement store)

Paracord

Lighter

Scissors or Knife

How many plates do i need?:

I don't know. that's something you will have to figure out on you own.

What I did to figure out the number of plates i needed was the following:

1) Buy ten packages of Mending Braces

2) Measure from nipple to nipple on the chest you will be making the armor for

3) Lay enough plates down in a row to equal or exceed the measurement...depending on your desired area of protection

= Write down that number and don't lose it=

4) Measure from nipple to waistline on the torso you will be making the armor for

5) Lay enough plates down in a vertically overlapping column to equal or exceed the measurement...depending on your desired area of protection

= Write down that number and don't lose it=

Multiply your two numbers and that will give you your base line

Multiply that number by 2 and you have your front and back plate count

Do the same thing for your sides then add them all together and you have your plate count

Mine came out to 168 plates

At this point you will have purchased your plates and congrats for getting this far

==BUT WAIT!!!===

Contact us to discuss your requirements of lamellars. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

The plates you bought have holes in them.... but they don't tie together!!

WHAT??!!

In order to have them tie together properly you will have to add some holes...hence the drill and bits

Now feel free to add your holes where ever you want, however you want...my way is not the only way

Also feel free to modify your plates

round tops, fluted tops, d shaped sides, fish scales....whatever you want it to look like

WAIT!!! STOP!!! HOLD UP!!

Just do ONE PLATE the way you want your holes, that one will become your MASTER PLATE

1) Place your plate on the wood... bumps up

2)Using your marking tool, color in the holes

3) Remove plate

4) Drill small hole in each spot you colored

5) Mark plate for new holes

6)Clamp wood to stable surface

7) Place marked plates back onto the wood

8) Drill screws into holes, securing plate into place

9) Drill new holes through marked area on plate

Take advantage of our deposit option and pay only a deposit (+shipping) at this time. The cart will process this as a normal order and calculate your shipping costs so you know what to expect. When the item is available to ship we will contact you for the balance.

Please note: this deposit is non-refundable. Turn around time is an estimate and can vary depending on the manufacturer’s given work load.

This option is not for in stock items, it is only for special orders with long turnaround times. If you do order something marked as in stock, the stocked model will not be held for you. A new special order with the listed turnaround time will be started for you instead, to allow you the time to pay off the full price.

You will receive an notification, including tracking information, when the order ships. If you ordered an in-stock item, please reach out to us only if you have NOT received a shipment notification after 7 business days.

We prioritize quality over speed.

Our shipment times include an amount of time for us to inspect and then appropriately package and protect your purchase before we ship. We are proud to be famous for our brown-paper protective wraps which help your purchase arrive in excellent condition.

Shipment times will vary due to the stock status of an item and whether you included other services, such as sharpening, in your order.

If an item is in-stock, we aim to ship within 7 business days of your order. If you have added sharpening, it may add up to an additional 7-10 business days.

Our items that are listed as Usually Ships in One to Two Weeks normally ship within 10-14 days.

Thank you for being a valued customer!
Kult of Athena Team

Overview

Our sharpening service will provide a good serviceable edge on the blade. The result is typically “very sharp” with a small secondary bevel and a bit of an “apple seed” profile. The resulting edge is somewhat dependent on the particular blade. Some blades will take and hold sharper edges than others and the thickness of the blade will determine how wide the bevel will need to be. We adjust the angle of the edge to suit the specific blade and attempt to get as close to a bevel-less edge as possible without marring the surface of the blade.

The Sharpening Process

The sharpening service is done with a belt sander. The process involves many passes with sanding belts of various grits. The blades are rested between passes to prevent them from becoming hot and damaging their temper. By default we will sharpen as much of the blade as possible including any false edges if appropriate. If you have a different preference, feel free to make that request in the special instructions at check out. We can sharpen only the last half or third of an edge, for example. Our sword sharpening expert has personally sharpened several thousand swords at this point, so will provide you with a professional service.

What the Service is Not

The resulting edge will be “sword sharp” not razor sharp. Our goal is to provide you with a usable edge for cutting practice that will hold up to some use and not require constant re-sharpening. In other words, we intend to provide you with a serviceable weapon, not a personal grooming implement. The service will not provide a completely bevel-less edge. To create that type of edge will necessarily scratch up the blade surface and we lack the machinery and time to provide a full re-polishing of a blade’s surface. A service of that nature would be significantly more expensive as a great deal more time would be required. We do not offer this type of service at this time.

Disclaimer

We make no guarantee that the resulting edge will meet with your expectations. Every blade is different and some will take and hold a sharper edge than others, due to the blade material, heat treatment or geometry. Some customers can also have incorrect assumptions about sword sharpness and improper expectations as a result. All we can say for sure is that the resulting edge will be sharper than the default edge, in most cases, significantly so. We can not provide any refunds for the service once it has been completed, so consider it to be provided “as is”. That being said, if you are unhappy with the product for any reason, we do still allow you to return the item for a full refund, including the sharpening costs under our normal return policy. This does not apply to special sharpening requests, for example if we sharpen something specially for you that does not normally list that option on our site. The vast majority of our customers are happy with the results of the service, so as long as you keep the above mentioned in mind, we are confident you will be pleased with the results as well.

Swords marked as “Battle Ready” are made to a higher standard than your average display weapons. The blades are usually made of carbon steel, as opposed to the more brittle stainless steel and feature longer and stronger tangs.

“Battle Ready” does not necessarily mean the blade is sharpened, this depends on the manufacturer. Some sell them sharp like Cold Steel, some dull like Windlass Steel Crafts, and some do both like Hanwei. So if you need to know if it is sharp or not and it is not mentioned in the description, just ask.

In general “Battle Ready” swords are functional weapons that will live up to actual combat usage. They are closest to historic examples in the fact that when properly sharpened they can cut as designed. However, “Battle Ready” does not mean indestructible. Any sword can be broken. Use common sense with your sword, and it will last for generations. A sword being listed as “Battle Ready” does not constitute a guarantee that it will withstand any abuse you can throw at it. “Battle Ready” swords are not designed for blade to blade type combat, you will want to select “Stage Combat” swords for this activity.

P.O.B. stands for Point Of Balance, this is measured in inches from the hilt down the blade. It refers to the point on the blade where the sword achieves a perfect balance. A number of 0” would balance exactly at the guard, while a negative number will have a POB in the hilt itself. In theory a sword with a POB of 0” is perfectly balanced. In practice however, there are many reasons why you may not want this for a particular sword. A POB of 3”- 5” usually results in a well balanced sword, but does depend on the type of sword. In general, a low POB results in good point control well suited to a thrusting blade, while a higher POB adds impact to a cleaving blade. A very high POB will result in a sword that feels heavier than it actually is and is difficult to wield.

Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.

If you want to learn more, please visit our website bellows cover.